**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment.Surfing only looks like a sport.
https://www.amazon.com/Barbarian-Days-Surfing-William-Finnegan/dp/0143109391